TT 



HOW TO MAKE 

HAND MADE 

FLOWERS 



ADA JONES SMITH 



^ 



HOW TO MAKE 
HAND MADE 
FLOWERS 



by 

ADA JONES ^MITH 

Instructor of Millinery 

Columbia University 

New York 



Published by 

ADA JONES SMITH 

Room I0I2 — loi Park Ave., Xcw York 
First Edition 






Copyright 1922 
Bv ADA TONES SMITH 





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1 







INTRODUCTION 

In this book of Hand-made Flowers it has been 
my aim to give a variety of principles and to show^ the 
many kinds of materials that may be used with satisfac- 
tory results. 

It would be folly to deceive ourselves or others in 
thinking we may imitate Nature's handiwork. We can 
only hope to have hand-made flowers artistic. Many 
times the same principle is used for various flowers. To 
make the flower realistic, choose a shade of ribbon or silk 
as near the natural color of the flower as possible. To 
further distinguish the flower add commercial foliage. 
Proper foliage for many flowers is obtainable. For in- 
stance, in making violets, we would use violet colored 
material, — if a rose, we would use rose-colored material. 

In this book are thirty-two models and the use 
of many different materials is described,— silk, satin, 
velvet, organdy, kid, velvet, ribbon, chiffon, gingham, 
fancy ribbon, and chenille. / 

The fancy ribbon creations are nice for boudoir 
decorations such as lamp or candle shades, pillows, bags 
or fancy boxes. Pink satin or chiffon flowers are used 
with pleasing effect for caps and negligee. 

A hat may be trimmed with flowers made of the 
same material as the hat, or a contrasting material is in 
good taste. 

Many evening gowns are trimmed quite elabo- 
rately. A single flower or a small bunch of flowers may 
be used to add interest to an afternoon or street dress. 
The woman who likes^. ^to express her individuality 
appreciates this. 



Velvet or velvet ribbon flowers are used for after- 
noon dress, yarn flowers for street dress, and organdy 
for an organdy hat or dress. All these flowers not only 
add charm to the gown or hat, but also are fascinatmg 
to make and truly very simple to the one who knows how. 

Though exact measurements for the models have 
been given, after making a few you will find that the size 
is not so important when you reflect that flowers are all 
sizes. You will know the principles and so you will be 
able to utilize many small scraps in your flower mak- 
ing. The kid flowers are made from the top part of old 
kid gloves. 

The art of flower making may be the means of 
increasing one's earnings. The author knows many who 
have done this. Some have taken orders, some have sold 
their creations as they were completed, others sell through 
Woman's Exchanges, and still others teach classes in 
flower making. Thus the possibilities of this work are 
manv. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS 
FOR FLOWER MAKING 

V^AREFULLY read directions for making a flower. Note which 
silk is dampened before using and which is not. Note which petals are 
gathered between thumb and finger and which need to be gathered with 
a needle and thread. Plan silk needed before you begin to cut a flower, 
place your pattern on your material as you would before making a dress. 

Prozndc yourself zvitJi the follozviiig things: piece of oilcloth for 
table top, j^ yard of clean cheesecloth, a platter or plate, old scissors to 
cut wire, sharp scissors to cut silk, tape measure or small ruler, pencil, box 
of pins, sheet wadding, absorbent cotton, needle and thread and thimble, 
sachet, pincers, ten cents worth of gum arable. 

Take ^2 yord of cheesecloth, fold twice, wet in ice cold water and 
wring out as dry as possible. Place this on a platter. Between the folds 
of this wet cloth some of the petals are dampened before making a flower. 
Cut all of your patterns and silk pieces before you start to make a bunch 
of flowers. If when working with a petal it gets dry put it back under the 
wet cheesecloth to dampen and take another. 

Absorbent cotton makes a fine filling for sachets, apples and but- 
tons for rose centers, but lamb's wool is easier to sew thru. It is more 
expensive than absorbent cotton and less apt to be found in every home. 

Sheet zvadding is used when a flower is large and a common wire 
stem is too weak and small to look nice with the flower. Cut a small sheet 
of wadding into strips 12 inches square, tear it into ^ inch widths, sepa- 
rate the layers. Wind one piece at a time. A padded stem is covered more 
easily with fibre. If too many layers of wadding is wrapped on the stem 
wire at one time the stem will be bulky and hard to manage. Thus wrap 
stem with one thickness at a time. Add as many strips as necessary to 
make stem the desired size. 

Glue. Obtain ten cents worth of powdered gum arable from any 
druggist. Put this with 2 teaspoons flour in a large mouthed bottle, pre- 
ferably an old mucilage bottle. Add 2^^ to 3 teaspoons cold water or as 

[5] 



little as it will take to soften the gum arable, allow to set over night. If it 
is too thin the next morning set it aside in a warm place without the cork. 
Allow it to evaporate to, the consistency of commercial glue. One should 
plan to prepare the glue several days before using it. If this glue is kept 
for some time after making it may sour. Souring will not harm the stick- 
ing qualities. If it becomes thin while not in use remove the cork and 
allow it to evaporate for several days. This is a most satisfactory glue. 

Stamens when purchased will have little flecks of color on both 
ends of the linen threads. To use them in a center one may follow dia- 
gram and text of Art. XXII. Or one may cut the desired amount from 
the bundle and have the color only on one end of the thread. Keep your 
stamens smooth and bound tightly. This makes it easier to cut them. Be- 
fore cutting them know that your bundle is caught tightly thru the mid- 
dle with winding wire. Cut the desired number away from the bunch on 
one side of the center wire and leave stub of cut ends under the wire. 

To arrange a hunch of stamens about a pep hold the stamens be- 
tween your left thumb and finger and place chosen pep on them and work 
them about the stem evenly (Art. VII, Fig, 12). Add interest to your 
center by varying the length of stamen stems. Tie stamens securely and 
clip excess ends at an angle up the stem and bind with winding wire. Re- 
move stififness from the center by bending the stamen threads in over 
the pep. 

To apply ivinding zvire hold leaf or petal between thumb and 
finger of left hand. Take winding wire in right hand and bring end up 
and catch it between the thumb and finger of the left hand while winding 
wire 2 or 3 times about the base of the leaf with the right hand. Pull wire 
tightly, cut away most of the excess material beneath base, hold tie wire 
in right hand straight out from flower and stem in left hand and twist 
stem, rolling flower up on wire toward right hand. When all of the goods 
tapering down on the wire has been secured bring wire in right hand in 
and down to form stem. 

As one goes along making flowers one's technic becomes more 
perfect and there is less material wasted in finishing the base of a petal or 
a flower. The best workmen have very little, if any excess goods tied into 
the winding wire to be tapered off before the stem is finished. 

[61 



A spray or calyx may be commercial or may be made of silk or 
velvet as follows: (1) take a small piece of material 1 inch square; (2) 
fold diagonally three times; (3) fold fourth time and one end will be 
longer than the other; (4) cut ofif this long end; (5) clip each corner of 
triangle slightly; (6) unfold spray and slit i/^ the distance from center 
hole to the periphery of piece of material, this will make it fit better when 
stem wire is run through hole and spray folded and glued about base of 
flower. See Article XI. Another kind of spray has been described in 
Article IX. 

Flozver centers may be a commercial product or may be assembled 
by using stamens and peps. 

Leaves like those used in Berry Cluster are the most commonly 
used. They are made from squares of silk (Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8). 
A more economical leaf may be made like leaf described in (Art. Ill, 
Figs. 4, 5, 6). Sometimes one has a small triangular piece of material but 
cannot get a square out of it. So save all of the small queer shaped pieces 
of materials. 

The leaf included in the Loose Bud Spray (Art. I) is present 
more for its green color than for its realistic appearance. Organdy and 
silk may be hemstitched into triangular pieces and used for leaves with 
picot edges. When having this hemstitching done it is always a good plan 
to have a quantity done at one time. One is constantly using green leaves 
and these are always correct. They are a good) style for so many flowers. 
Commercial leaves can be obtained at milliner shops. 

Stems may be finished in a variety of ways. They may be covered 
with rubberized tape, silk winding fibre, bias strips of green silk, velvet 
or green organdy, white or colored embroidery cotton or silk. There are 
also many commercial stem coverings. 

Rubherizcd tape has glue in its preparation and may be made to 
adhere by pressing with the thumb and finger. To apply, start at the base 
of a flower and cover the base thoroughly, twist the tape about the stem 
for i/^ inch or more then, holding flower and wire stem in the left hand 
pull tape down toward end of wire and flatten onto wire with a few rolls 
of the thumb and finger. Tear tape at end and roll. 

17] 



Green IVinding Fibre is one of the dressy stem finishes. Cut as 
much fibre from the spool as you think will wind the stem. Allow this 
fibre to uncurl as much as possible. Do not try to roll about a stem. Turn 
the stem with one hand and wind the fibre on flat and smooth with the 
other hand. 

In assembling a bunch of flowers one may (1) tie all wires in one 
stem and tape or silk the branch, or (2) all wires may be covered sepa- 
rately and flowers tied in a bunch with stems spread or sprangled out. 



[8] 




Loose Bud Spray 



Article I 



"UT 




Art. I, Fig. 1. 



() — One inch squares for buds 

3 — 2^ inches by 1% inches for leaves 

This bunch of silk flowers consists of six 
buds and three leaves. It is very pretty 
when made of silk of different pastel 
shades. While the leaves may not seem the 
shape of a leaf they lend color to the bunch. 
Place the pieces of silk between the wet cheesecloth until they become 

thoroughly dampened and smooth. When ready to use, take a piece 

of silk fof bud and fold diagonally. (Art. I, Fig. 1). Start at right 

hand edge to gather with thumb and finger. Hold with left hand and 

gather with right. Then hold with left 

thumb and finger and have 3 inches of wind- 
ing wire extend below the bud. Twist one 

end of fine wire around the base of the bud 

three times, pulling tightly (Art. I, Fig. 2) 

with the right hand. The ends of the wires 

make the stem of the bud. While the silk 

IS still wet take the pincers and with the 

very point catch the tip of the puff and 

twist two or three times. (Art. I, Fig. 3). 

To release pincers, press down in the center 

and at the same time pull the pincers out. 

Wrap the wire stems with rubberized 
tape. 

LEAF 

Take the piece of silk cut for leaves 
and proceed as follows : (T ) fold the 
raw edges to the center; (2) fold 
again lengthwise; (3) tie in a loose 
knot : (4 ) bring the two ends together : 
(5) hold in place with the left thumb 
and finger and wind around the base 
with winding wire. Finish same as 
the bud. (Art. I. Fig. 4. 5, 6, 7). 

Assemble the six buds and three 
leaves by tying them with a fine wire 
and covering the wire with a piece of 
the material used to cover the stems. 
Sprangle or spread the stems. 




Art. I, Figs. 2, .V 



t 




Art. I, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 



9] 




Berry Cluster 



Article II 



CUT 



3 — 1 inch squares for leaves 
10 — 1 inch squares for berries, 

1 HE Berry Cluster consists of ten berries 
and three green leaves. 

To make a berry, place the pieces of silk 
in the damp cloth. Take a small amount of 
cotton and roll it with thumb and finger to make a small hard ball. Add 
flakes of moist cotton until desired size of three-eighths inch is obtained. 
Place the ball of cotton in the center of piece of moist silk and fold silk 
diagonally. (Art. II, r>.r 
Fig. 1, 2). Pucker all of ^ 
the silk to one point at 
the base of the covered 
ball ; catch in place with 
winding wire. Wrap the 
wire tightly about the silk 
and stem, then holding 
the wire at right angles 
to the stem twist stem and 
bind to the end of the 
silk goods. Do not wrap 
these stems with tape. 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

(1) Beginning at the top, group three berries, place one with 
low; (2) wrap winding wire high and tightly about the base of 
ries; (3) add/ a fourth berry below the last two and secure with 
wire; (4) add fifth and sixth berries, 
one on each side of fourth and secure ^ 
as above ; (5) add seventh under fourth 
and wrap with winding wire once; (6) 
add eighth and ninth under fifth and 
sixth, securing again; (7) add tenth 
berry under seventh to finish the clus- 
ter (Art. II, Fig. 9) ; (8) leaving the 
longest wire to form the stem ; (9) cut 
away the remaining fine wires at an 
angle. Never clip them ofif in one 
bunch or in one place on the stem. 

LEAF 

Fold silk diagonally, bring the left 
hand corner A to the right hand corner 




Art. II, Figs. 1, 2, 3. 



tW'O be- 
the ber- 
windine 




Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 



10] 



B. The raw edges are now on the open side. Gather 
raw edges at the base with right thumb and finger. 
Hold with left thumb and finger and wind with 
winding wire as you did the buds. Wrap the stems 
of the leaves with tape. Place them back of the ber- 
ries so that the leaves only will show. Wrap aj] 
wires in one stem and twist stem up and around 
artistically. 



©€)© 

\0/ 




Alt. II, Fig. 9. 




Raisins 

Article III 



CUT 



16 — \}i inch squares for raisins. 

5 — Triangles 214 inches on each side. 
(Green for leaves) 

Raisins make a very smart trimming 
for a hat when placed about the crown or 
on the brim of a large hat. It makes the 
bunch more interesting if one can get the 
raisin shade of silk but these ornaments 
may be made any color one has silk to 
make them of. 

To make raisins: put the pieces of silk 
in the wet cheesecloth to dampen. (1) Take one piece of silk and fold 
diagonally; (2) press edge with thumb and finger; (3) gather from the 
right hand corner B to C and from C to A; (4) hold with the winding 
wire and cut aw^ay silk to taper ofif nicely on stem (Art. Ill, Figs. 1, 
2); (5) hold firmly and flat with the left 
thumb and finger and with the pointed end 
of pincers or pin take a tiny piece of silk 
and draw it down as tight and as far as pos- 
sible (Art. Ill, Fig. 3) ; (6) Do this in two 
or three places while silk is wet. When dry 
the raisin will continue to have the realisti- 
cally rough and wrinkled appearance; (7) 
^^'>ap each stem with tape or winding silk. 



LEAF. 

This leaf is made of a triangular piece of 
silk. (1) Turn top edge over to make a 

[11] 




Art. Ill, Figs. 1, 2, 3. 




Art. Ill, Figs. 4, 5, 6. 



quarter inch hem; (2) press with 
thumb and finger ; (3) bring down to 
C ; (4) gather with thumb and finger 
up to A ; (5) wind with fine wire 
and wrap with tape or winding floss. 

TENDRIL 

For the tendril use about 12 inches 
of winding wire. SpHt the winding 
fibre and wind a few strands on the 
wire, then wind the covered wire 
around a small knitting needle to 
make the tendril. 



BRANCH 

To make the branch: (1) take 4 inches of stem wire; (2) wrap it 
with a ]/4 inch strip of sheet wadding; (3) cover 1 inch down with fibre 
silk ; (4) turn and bend the covered tip over to make a loop of covered 
wire % to ^ inch in length; (5) proceed to cover the stem with silk 
winding fibre. 




CUT 

1 y^ — inch square 

2 — 1^ inch square >t 

, , , . , fLeaves 

1 — 1|4 inch square j 

Cut the required pieces of silk and place 
in a damp cloth. 

In making apples : ( 1 ) Cut a piece of 
the small green stem wire about four 
inches long; (2) make a small loop in 
one end of the stem wire; (3) attach a 
length of tie wire in the loop; (4) catch 
the center of the silk squares and attach 
the silk tightly to the stem wire with the 
winding wire — this will later form the 
dimple or blossom part of the apple — (5) 
sheet wadding and wind it around the w 
the silk is attached. Use sufficient quantit 

[12 



Small Apple 
Spray 



Article IV 
CUT 

1 — 1-}4 inch square 1 
i^lH inch square y 
1 — XYa. inch square ! 



Appl( 



les 




Art. IV, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. 

Take a long ^4 inch strip of 
ire up near the end to which 
y to fill the silk plumply ; (6) 



bring down each corner of silk over the cotton and work in the rest of 
the silk (Art. IV, Figs, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) ; (7) Hold in place with left 
thumb and finger and secure with winding wire; (8) cut ofl^ the green 
stem wire and taper off the bulky silk nicely; (9) wrap ^4 inch of the 
stem with tape or winding silk. 



LEAF 

Refer to article II, figures 4, 5, 6. 7, 8. 
TO ASSEMBLE THE GROUP: 

(1) Wrap a 6 inch stem wire with a ^4 inch strip of sheet wadding; 
(2) cover 1 inch down with fibre silk; (3) turn and bind the covered 
tip over to make a loop of covered wire ^4 inch in length ; (6) proceed 
to cover the stem with fibre silk; (7) insert the smallest leaf one inch 
from the loop, bind to stem with winding wire, cover with fibre silk and 
proceed down the stem; (8) ^ inch below place the smallest apple and 
hold with winding wire as you did the leaf; (9) ^ inch from apple 
]Dlace the second leaf and on opposite side from this leaf; (10) place the 
second apple; (11) 1 inch from this apple set on the two leaves, and 
( 12) 1 inch from these leaves the largest apple. Now that they are as- 
sembled wrap the long branch with the tape or winding silk. 




Apple Spray 

Article V 

CUT 

3 — 2y2 inch squares. 
8 — leaves as per pattern 
Plate IIL 

C-UT the pieces of silk 
for apples and place in a 
damp cloth. ( 1 ) Take 
enough cotton to make 
the apple the desired size; (2) place this cotton in the center of the silk; 
(3) fold silk diagonally; (4) bring the other corners down and work in 
the rest of the fullness with left thumb and fingers; (5) secure with 
winding wire; (6) cut awav the bulkv silk and wind the rest to taper 
off nicely (Art. V, Figs. 1, 2, 3 ). 

There are several ways to make the blossom end of the apple, but 
first make the dimple for the blossom by bringing a needle and thread 
through the cotton and silk two or three times, pulling tightly to form 
the dimple. Now take a piece of silk of a dark color (^ inch square) 
and sew in center (Art. V, Figs. 4, 5). Trim off all but a tiny amount. 
You may also use ^ inch brown yarn or Yx inch green embroidery silk 

[13] 



or anything for a little color at the blos- 
som. Wrap each apple stem with winding 
silk or tape 1 inch only on the stem. 

LEAVES 

To get a true pattern of the leaf, place 
tissue paper over the diagram and trace. 
Plate III. Cut 8 leaves of silk, being most 
careful to leave the top edges on the bias 
of the silk. Place silk in the damp cloth. 
When thoroughly dampened : ( 1 ) turn 
the top edge down ^4 ii^ch and press edge ; 

(2) find center of the straight folded edge ; 

(3) fold right half in at right angles to 
left half ; (4 ) fold left half in so that the 
edges of right and left half meet in the 
center of the leaf. Looking at the leaf one 
finds all of the fullness or folds upon the 
top surface. The back of the leaf will be 
smooth; (5) proceed to fold as per diagram (Art. V, Figs. 8, 9, 10, 
11) ; first on the right and then on the left side, folding each time from 
silk on top or pushing the top silk over to make the desired fold. Each 
fold covers the raw edge of the last. Gather petal or leaves at the base 
with thumb and finger. Hold with winding wire and wrap with tape 
or silk. Assemble leaves so there is a bunch of four on each stem. Place 
apples in the center, hold with tape or winding wire. 







Art. V, Figs. 1, 



3, 4, 5. 




14] 




Daisy 



Article VI 

CUT 

16 petals as per diagram 23, Plate 

IV. 
2 — \y'2 inch squares. 
2 green leaves from same pattern 
as petals. 

Be most particular to have 
the top or straight edge of the 
pattern on the bias of the silk. 
Cut the two pieces for the bud 
and center of the flower from 
silk of color of the flowers. 
Place silk for petals and leaves 
in the damp cloth and proceed 
to fold as in making the folded leaves for Article V. Hold in mind you 
are to make a long slim petal or leaf (Art. VI, Fig. 1). Each time you 
fold, pull all excess fullness toward base of petal. Do not try to get in 
too many folds. Finish all petals the same length. Be careful to cut away 
the bulky silk after securing end of petal with winding wire. Before as- 
sembling the flower wrap 1 inch of stem of each petal with winding wire. 
If you wish the petal to curve a little, shape it with your fingers while it 
is damp and allow it to dry that way. 



BUD AND CENTER 

These are made as the berrv in Article II. 
Figs. 1. 2, 3). 



See (Art II, 



TO ASSEMBLE THE PETALS: 

( 1 ) Place them evtnl}' around the center ^4 inch from the 
end of the petal, set two on at a time, wind tightly with wire 
and set on two more and so on; (2) when 16 have been ar- 
ranged in this manner cut away all but one wire and wrap 
this with a V^ inch strip of sheet wadding. Two inches along 
the stem from the base of the flower place the bud and two 
leaves, hold with the fine winding wire and wrap the whole 
stem with winding silk. 



Art. VI, Fig. 1 



15 




Small Peony 

Article VII 



Petals 



CUT 
5 small 
7 large 

4 large for green leaves as per 
diagrams 20. 21, 22, Plate IV. 

Before cutting the petals and 
leaves be sure that the straight 
edge of the pattern is on the 
bias of the material. Place the silk in the wet cloth. ( 1 ) Turn the top 
edge over twice to the depth of ^4 inch; (2) from center fold a long 
narrow sweep to the left; (3) keep on folding long narrow sweeps, cov- 
ering the raw edge each time; (4) hold the completed side between the 
fingers of the left hand and fold the right side in the same way. Be sure 
to start from the center of tip when folding the right side. As the edges 
are curved there will be about 5 or 6 folds along each side. This then 
gives the desired light and dark shading along the edge of the petals ; 
(5) gather at base with thumb and finger and hold in place with wind- 
ing wire. Make each petal or leaf fiat by pressing it tightly between 
thumb and finger (Art. VII, Figs. 3, 4, 5, 6). 



TO ASSEMBLE: 

(1) Arrange a small bunch of stamens 
about a fancy pep. A rolled bud may be 
used instead of a commercial pep (Art. 
VII, Figs. 1, 2) ; (2) secure them in place 
with winding wire; (3) cut a stem wire 
5 inches long and secure end in center of 
the stamens ; (4) trim away the bulky ends 
of stamens and finish with winding wire ; 
(5) set small petals on, one at a time. 
Set them high and close to pep and wind 
tightly, once around for each petal. Cut 
away excess wire; (6) set large petals 
on exactly even with the base of the small 
petals. Use winding wire as above; (7) 
finish wires neatly. 

SPRAY OR CALYX 

Cut a piece of silk 1 inch square and 
trim around the edges to make 4 or 5 
scallops. Snip a hole in the center and 
pull the stem through. Place a bit of glue 
on the scallops and press them to the back of petals 




16 



STEM 

Cut a strip of sheet wadding i.^ inch wide and separate. \\' rap a stem 
wire with this to make a soft surface to hold the winding floss or fibre. 

LEAVES 

The leaves are made in the same manner as the petals. Wrap the stem 
1 inch down with the winding silk. Place two leaves on the stem each 
side of the flower. Hold with winding wire. Cut away the fine wires to 
make a smooth stem. Wrap the stem from the base of the flower down 
to the end. 



The small peony has a leaf and petal that requires patience to make 
but the finished product is well worth the efl^ort. A flower of this kind 
is very pretty on almost any kind of a hat. If the folds have a tendency 
to release the raw edges, a speck of glue on a tooth pick tucked in here 
and there will correct this. 

Taffeta 
Rose 

Article VHI 

Xms rose is made 
of a light weight 
tafleta. Three cir- 
cles are used. One 
4 inches 




cnxie 
diameter 
cle 3>^ 
diameter 



m 

One cir- 

inches in 

One cir- 



cle 3 inches in dia- 
meter. Divide each 
circle into five parts 
and cut to within 
% inch of the cen- 
ter on each one of 
these spokes. Round 
ofi^ corners slightly 
and place in a damp cloth. When thoroughly wet curve the edges by roll- 
ing over a knitting needle (Art. VIII, Figs. 1, 2). When dry touch up 
with a darker shade of transparent water color to make the rose more 
realistic. Place stamens in a small bimch at the end of a green wire and 
around this bunch arrange a second row with heads about ^/^ inch higher 
than the first row. (See Art. XIV, Figs. 1, 2). Make a small opening 
in the center of the smallest circle, push the stem wire through, draw 
about J4 inch of silk down on the stem and hold with winding wire. This 
gives the petals the overlapping that we wish them to have. Repeat with 
the second and third. Finish the back of the rose with a commercial 
calyx. Cut and insert stem in a rubber stem made especially for roses. 

[17] 




It is large enough to be cut in two places to in- 
sert the stems of branches of leaves. The end of 
the wire must be turned back 34 inch against 
rubber stem to hold it in place. Glue the calyx 
in place. 

Roses 

In the making of roses and roselike flowers 
such as the pond lily, similar principles are in- 
involved : (1) the silk for the petals is cut in 
squares; (2) it is folded diagonally; (3) gath- 
ered in small pleats or gathers from right hand An. viii. Figs. 1, 2. 
upper corner B down to corner C and to left 

hand corner A to C (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11) ; (4) working thus with 
a piece of silk on the bias allows a great deal of freedom in shaping the 
petal. Each petal should be curved and rounded out as it is gathered at 
the base; (5) the edge of each petal is improved by folding it back 
Ys inch. This gives strength to the rim of the petal and in some flowers 
adds the charm of increased size or fullness. This is done by holding the 
petal in the left hand with concave surface toward you. 

The Tea Rose (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12) is the most simple to 
make. It needs no special length or width to the petals and is assembled 
easily. Whereas the petals for the Bud Rose (Art. XII) must be a given 
length. And the petals of the Pond Lily (Art. XI) must be kept curved 
but flat and broad. 

Centers of roses vary. One may assemble a rose about one of several 
different centers. (1) A rolled bud (Art. IX, Figs. 8, 12) ; (2) a baby 
bud (Art. XI, Fig. 5) ; (3) a commercial pep (Art. VII, Figs. 1, 2) ; 
(4) a bunch of commercial stamens (Art. XIV, Fig. 1) ; (5) a berry 
with or without commercial stamens. 

Stems may be finished by slipping the stem wire into a commercial 
stem or they may be twisted with silk fibre or rubberized tape. 



[18 



/ 




Tea Rose and Berry 

Article IX 
CUT 

5 — iy2 inch squares for petals. 
1 — 3 inches by I14 inches for center. 
11 — 14 inch squares, light. 
11 — yi inch squares, dark, for berries. 
2 — \3^ inches by 1 inch for green calyx or spray. 
3 — \y2 inch square for green leaves. 

This group illustrates the way in which one may use scraps and small 
pieces of silk. Two shades of silk, a light and a dark may be used. The 
leaves should be green. 

I would suggest that you make the berries first. (Proceed as in Arti- 
cle II, Figs. 1, 2, 3.) These berries are about half the size of the ones 
described in Art. II, but the smaller the berry the more efifective it is 
and the more easily it is handled. 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

Each cluster contains eleven berries assembled to assume a conical 
shape. (Blackberry.) (1) Have one berry in the first row or tip; (2) 
four in the second row, securing two at a 
time; (3) secure the last row of six in a cir- 
cle around the base of the second row. (Art. 
IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3.) 

THE CALYX OR SPRAY 

Is the green at the base of the berry. To 
make spray from the piece of silk 1% by 1 
inch ; ( 1 ) turn the top edge down y^ inch ; 
(2) place this folded edge up close to the last 
row of berries. It will encircle this group once 
and a little over; (3) gather the raw edge 
down and around the stem wires and hold in 
place with winding wire; (4) cut away the 
extra silk so that it tapers ofif nicely ; also cut all of the wires except 
one and wrap this one with tape or winding silk. 




Art. IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3 



Tea Rose 



Make the center of the rose the same as a rolled bud. (Art. IX, Fig. 
8.) To make the petals: (1) fold each ly^ inch square diagonally and 
press with thumb and fingers; (2) gather from the right hand corner 
B to C with thumb and fingers and continue on from C to A. This 
forms a cuplike petal. (3) Secure base with winding wire; (4) turn 
the creased edge back 1-16 of an inch. (Art. IX, Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12.) 

[19] 




Art. IX. 

Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 



TO ASSEMBLE: 

(1) Place one petal on each side of the 
center; (2) hold tightly to the rolled bud 
center and secure with winding wire; (3) 
place the last three around the others and 
wire; (4) cut away the bulky silk and all 
wires but one; (5) wrap the remaining wire 
with silk or tape. 

LEAVES. 

(See Art. II, 
Figs. 4, 5. 6, 7, 8). 
Assemble the rose, 
berries and leaves 
artistically and hold 
with winding wire, 
then cut away all 
the wires but one 
and wrap stem with 
tape or fibre. 



Art. IX. 
Figs. 9, 10, 11, 12. 





als of the rose proceed as in (Art. 



French Rose 

Artici-e X 
IL'T 

3 — 2 inch squares for petals. 
3 — lJ/2 inch squares for petals. 
5 — 3 inches by 1J4 inch for buds. 
[1/2 inch squares for leaves. 



Cut all of the pieces of silk from 
dimensions given above and place 
them in a damp cloth. For the pet- 
IX, see Figs. 9, 10. 11.) 



ROLLED BUDS. 

( 1 ) Turn top edge of silk over ^ inch; (2) turn the lower edge up 
14 inch ; (3) fold again lengthwise; (4) take a piece of green stem wire 
and place it at the left hand end of the folded silk. Have the tip of wire 
extend ^-4 inch above silk; (5) catch the raw edge of the silk around the 
wire to hold it in place ; (6 ) bend the wire down from top and catch silk 
as you fold it again lengthwise. (Art. IX, Figs. 4, 5. 6, 7, 8). Form the 
bud by folding "or turning the strip of silk with right hand as left hand 

[20] 



turns the bud around. Bring the end of the silk to the green wire and 
secure to the green wire by the winding wire. Then cut away the green 
stem wire for only the fine wire is necessary for stems. Trim away the 
extra silk which is on the stem and cover stem with winding silk or tape. 

LEAVES. 

(See Art. II, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8.) 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

Place and secure the small petals about the rolled bud center. Set 
them on one at a time. Place the three larger petals outside the smaller 
ones so that the petal curves cover the spaces between the first petals. 
Cut away all but one wire. Wind with tape the stem of each bud and 
leaf and assemble. 




Pond Lily 

Article XI 



CUT 



5 — 3 inch squares for petals. 
5 — 2j4, inch squares for petals. 
5 — 1^ inch squares for bud. 
13 — • ^ inch squares for silk peps. 
2 leaves as per pattern 5, Plate L 

PETALS OF LILY. 

(1) Cut and place silk squares 
for petals in wet cloth; (2) fold a 
square diagonally and stretch, 
holding on to corners A and B ; 
(3) gather raw edge with thiunb and finger, shaping as you go; (4) 
secure with winding wire in following manner : first wrap wire loosely 
about gathers, then fold petal together and wire tightly. Unfold and 
shape broad and flat after wire secured; (5) crease edge of petals as 
described for roses. (Art. IX, Fig. 11). 

SMALL SILK PEPS. 

Place the pieces of silk in a wet cloth. Take the ^ inch square and 
fold diagonally, bring the right hand corner B to lower corner C, the 
left hand corner A to overlap B at C line. Gather and hold in place with 
winding wire. (Art. XI, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5). Wrap each one with wind- 
ing silk. After 13 have been finished, take a small bunch of commercial 
stamens and place a piece of green wire in the center and hold stamens 
to stem wire with winding wire. Trim away the extra ends and finish 
nice and neat. Place 8 of the silk peps around the stamens having them 
evenly spaced and have them extend ^ inch above the heads of the sta- 
mens. Hold in place with winding wire. Use this center for the lily 
and make one for the bud in the same way but only add 5 of the small 
silk peps. 

[21] 



TO ASSEMBLE THE POXD LILY: 

On the center just described set the inner petals. Set them on one at 
a time and not too close to the center. Set outer petals on around the 
inner petals. Trim off the extra wires. Take a ^4 inch strip of sheet 
wadding and wrap stem of flower. Then wrap with silk fibre down 2 
inches and set a leaf on the left of the stem and a leaf and a bud on the 
right, secure these to the stem wire and continue to wrap with the wind- 
ing silk fibre. Finish base of flower with spray of same silk. 

TO MAKE SPRAY OR CALYX : 

(1) cut a small piece of silk. (1 inch square or less will do ) ; (2) cut 
5 or 6 scallops around the edge; (3) snip a tiny place in the center and 
pull stem of rose or bud through; (4) glue to base of bud or flower. 

POND LILY BUD. 

Take the 1^ inch squares, place them in 
the wet cloth and proceed as for petals of 
the lily. 

To assemble, set the five small petals on 
around the center containing the small silk 
peps and commercial stamens. Have the pet- 
als overlap each other a little bit. Wrap the 
stem down about 2 inches with the winding 
fibre. 

LEAVES. 

Art. XI, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. ^n -11 r *i 1 • ^ ^ • 

The silk for these leaves is not put in a wet 

cloth. A piece of soft spool wire is to be glued in the edge. Cut the wire 

an inch longer than the length of the circumference of the leaf. Hold 

the leaf in the left hand and put glue on the edge of the leaf with a 

toothpick or any fine pointed instrument. At first you will not be able 

to glue all the way around and get the wire in before the glue is dry so 

do a bit at a time and fold over edge wire. Leave 3/4 inch of wire at 

base to start, also at the finish. Press glued edge in place with thumb 

and finger. 

Gather leaf at the base with thumb and finger and secure with wind- 
ing wire. When edge is dry draw a line down the center of the leaf and 
sketch veins into this line. Dash a line here and there along the edge to 
hide wire. Wrap the stems with winding silk. 




[22] 




Rose Bud Spray 



Article XII 



CUT 



3 — 3 inch squares, petals. 
3 — 2y2 inch squares, petals. 
-1 — \y^ inch squares, bud petals. 
1 — 2 inch squares, bud petals. 
4 — 2 inch squares, leaves. 
4 — 1 inch \y^ inch, spray. 
3 — 2 inches by 1 inch, spray. 

CiUT the above pieces of silk 
in any color, but use green 
for the leaves. Place the 
pieces in a damp cloth. The 
center of the large bud is made of one of the small buds. 

BUDS. 

Fold the silk diagonally and press the edges with thumb and finger. 
Bring the left hand corner A down to lower corner C, then bring the 
right hand corner B down to C, extending 34 of an inch to left of C. 
Gather at base with thumb and fingers, hold with winding wire and trim 
ofif excess silk. (Art. XI, Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5). Finish base of four of the 
buds with green spray or calyx. (Art. IX, Figs. 1, 2, 3). 

LARGE BUD. 

Fold the silk squares diagonally and press edges with the thumb and 
finger. Then stretch the center, holding at the base C to pull the top or 
fold in the center only. Length is the principle here. Proceed to make 
petals as the other roses. (Art. IX). Shape them long and pointed. 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

Cut a piece of stem wire 5 inches long, fasten upon it the bud you 
have saved for the center of the large rose. Place the three smallest pet- 
als around this bud. Have the top of the petals come to the top of the 
bud and overlap each other Yx inch. Then place the three large petals, 
having the base of petals ^ inch below the base of the first three. Se- 
cure one petal at a time, cut away the fine wires and wrap stem wire 
neatly. 

THE CALYX OR SPRAY 

of this bud is made of three pieces of green silk. Turn one of the 2 
inch edges down ^ inch, gather the other long raw edge with thumb and 
finger to a small petal shape. Place at the base of the bud and secure 
with winding wire. Set on the second and then the third, having each 
one overlap the other ^4 inch at base. Cut away the excess silk and 
taper off nicely. Wrap the stem wire of this large bud with a 34 inch 
strip of sheet wadding. 
LEAVES. 

(See Art. II, Figs. 4, 5,6, 7, 8). 

[23] 



TO ASSEMBLE THE BRANCH : 

Place a bud on the tip of the stem wire and the tirst leaf 1 inch below 
the bud and the other two buds 1 inch below the first leaf. Wrap stem 
with winding silk. Arrange the other branch, having 2 leaves 1 inch 
below the bud on the tip and the last leaf )^ inch below the other 2 
leaves. Wrap all stems with winding silk. Place a branch on each side 
of the main stem 1^/2 inches below the large bud and hold with winding 
wire. Cut away the fine wires and continue to w-rap the large wire with 
the silk. 




White Kid 
Dogwood 

ARxrci-E XIII 

CUT 
4 kid petals. 
3 kid leaves. 
Diagrams 9 and 10, 
Plate I 

FROM WHITE 
SATIN CUT 

4 — 2l4 inch squares. 
3 — 3 inches by l}i in. 

X<J make the dogwood blossom follow directions exactly for making the 
kid water lily. These white kid flowers make a neat trimming for a 
white hat. If the dogwood is used it is advisable to have more than one 
flower on the hat. Any number you desire would be correct. Arrange- 
ment would be varied. Five could be grouped around the crown ; three 
could be clustered on the right side or two could be laid flat on the brim. 
This flower has a stiff appearance and needs many leaves to make it 
attractive. 

The center may be only a berry. (Art. II). Or it may be marked out 
with the white stamens around a berry of white kid. (Art. VII, Fig. 2). 

TO ASSEMBLE A FOUR-PETAL FLOWER : 

Secure one petal to the stem wire and then the second directly oppo- 
site, then the third and fourth similarlv. 



[24] 



White Kid 
Water Lily 

Article XIY 

White kid flowers 
may be made from 
the good part of old 
kid gloves which are 
beyond wearing. If 
you do not have 
enough to make 
large flowers you can 
make a small one as 
the principle is the 
same. Have the 
gloves cleaned or do them at home in gasoline before you cut the petals. 




CUT 
7 kid petals of each of the three sizes. 
2 kid leaves. 

7 pieces of satin 1^4 inch by 4 inches. 
7 pieces of satin 1 inch by 3^ inches. 
7 pieces of satin 1 inch by 3 inches. 

Diagrams of petals and leaf on Plate I, 
4a, b, c, 5. Cut a piece of white spool wire 
2 inches longer than each petal and leaf. 
Remove the pin from the end of a tube of 
Dennison's glue, straighten the tie wire 
and insert it in the tube of glue the length 
of the wire which is going to cover the cen- 
ter of the petal. Place the petals right side 
up on the table and place the wire in the 
center of the petals on the wrong side 
(Art. XIV, Fig 3). Hold the wire in place 
by drawing a pencil heavily over the wire 
once or twice. Do not handle the petal by 
the wire until dry. Set each aside until the 

wire is glued to each one. While they are drying cut the white satin for 
the back facing. First measure the dimensions of the petals. Then cut 
the silk. If using the petal pattern given for this size of flower cut the 
satin as directed in the first of this article. The satin will extend beyond 
the edge of the petals all around. Cover the back of the kid petal with 
the "Daisy Glue," a milliner's glue carried by Conrad Smith, 16 West 
46th St., New York City. The glue used must have a very volatile char- 

[25] 




Art. XIV, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. 



acter. Common glue will tend to make the leaves hard and stiff. Place 
the satin on the glued surface and press down with fingers. See that 
the edges are held securely with the glue (Art. XIV, Fig. 4). Glue 
satin to the backs of all the petals and the leaf. When thoroughly dry trim 
the satin off which extends beyond the edge of the kid (Art. XIV, Fig. 
5). Do not handle them by the wire more than is necessary. Arrange the 
stamens, (either white or yellow) by having a solid bunch in the center 
and others extending Yz inch from the center (Art. XIV, Figs. 1,2). Do 
not overdo the stamens by having too many in the center. 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

About the center, set the smallest ones on one at a time and hold in 
place with winding wire. Trim away the wires before setting on the 
next largest petals. Put the largest size on the outside. Wrap the stem 
of each leaf with white embroidery floss about 1^/^ inches from the base 
of the leaf. Then wrap the stem of the lily with white embroidery floss. 
Set the leaves on the stem about 2 inches from the base of the lily. Finish 
stem with embroidery floss. Fasten the end of the floss with a bit of glue. 

Just one lily with its leaves makes a smart trimming for a hat. 



Large Silk 

and 
Silver Rose 

Article XV 

CUT 

5 large petals. 
4 small petals. 
2 pieces silver net 
1 — 3 inches by 1^ inch 
silk 

Diagram 1 and 2 
found on Plate I. 
Trace on tissue paper. 
Cut petals on the bias 
way of the silk. 

^Measure oft" spool wire 
and cut into lengths suitable to go around edge of petals. The silk for 
these petals does not go into the wet cloth as they are to have a wire 
glued in their edges. Hold the petals in the left hand and put the glue 
along the silk a little ways at a time as described in the making of the 
pond hly leaf (Art. XI) see (Art. XVI, Figs. 1, 2). Gather petals at 
the base and hold with winding wire. Make the nine silk petals and set 




26 



aside to drv while you are making the silver petals and the rolled bud 
for the pep (Art. IX, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8). 

ROLLED BUD FOR PEP 

Proceed as in Article IX. Around this bud place stamens to extend 
]/■> inch above the bud. Hold these to the winding wire and trim away 
the bulk (Art. VII. Figs. 1. 2). 

SILVER PETALS 

(1) Cut two pieces of spool wire the length of the edge of the wires 
on the petals or about 8 inches; (2) wrap this wire with gray embroid- 
ery floss; (3) shape it like the petal; (4) cut a piece of silver net about 
6 inches deep and bring it over the wire on the bias; (5) gather at the 
base; (6) hold in place with winding wire (Art. XV, Figs. 1. 2, 3, 4), 
One petal is left to be arranged among the smaller petals. The other 
petal fold double and twist (Fig. 5). This unfurled petal we place on 
the stem with pep and stamens and secure to stem wire with winding 
wire. Arrange it so that it curves over the center of the poppy or rose. 
Place the four silk petals and one silver one around the center, secur- 
ing one at a time with the winding wire. Cut away the ends of fine wire 
to taper off nicely. Then set on the five larger petals having the base 
exactly even with the base of the 
small petals. Hold in place with wind- V 
ing wire, securing one at a time, ^i 
Trim oft' the wires. 

CALYX OR SPRAY 

Make and glue to the base of the 
rose as you did in the pond lily (Art. XI). 

STEM 

Wrap with a % inch strip of sheet wadding 
then cover with gray embroidery floss. 

This flower makes a very attractive trimming 
for an evening dress. Sometimes the large rose 
may have several long streamers of silver rib- 
bon fluttering from its base. Sometimes one 
may add large buds to the ends of the streamers 
and then again one may include some small 4 
petal flowers along the ribbon. Art. x\', Figs. i. 




27] 



Pansy 

Article XVI 

CUT 

2 side petals. 
2 back petals. 
1 bottom petal. 

1 HE flowers described in Article 
XV and Article XVI differ from 
the others in that there is a white 
wire glued in the edge. 

Obtain the pattern by tracing 
diagrams 6, 7, 8, Plate II. Cut petals on bias of the silk and proceed to 
glue wire in edge in same manner as described in (Article XV) and in 
(Fig. 1,2, Art. XVI). 

If you have no commercial pep for pansy make a little bud of IV2 
inch square of silk and silk fibre its stem (Art. XVI, Figs. 4, 5, 6, 7). 
Bend the bud up and at right angles to the stem. Have flat of bud fac- 
ing you. Show V4 inch of silked stem. 

TO ASSEMBLE PANSY : 

(1) Secure bottom petal to center first. Crush edges to remove stift- 
ness ; (2) set on first one and then the other side petal. Take care to 







Art. X\I, Figs. 4, 5, 



.Ml. .\ > 1, i iss- ^; -'< ^y ' ■ 

have high side uppermost; (3) 
then set in place the two back pet- 



nign siue uppciiiiubt, yo 1 
set in place the two back pet- 
als, one at a time; (4) cut away 
all but one wire and wrap stem 
with silk; (5) use commercial 
pansy leaves. 




Art. XVI, Figs. 1, 2, 3. 



Organdy Flowers 



Organdy flowers arc perhaps the most dainty of all the hand made 
flowers, it is always well to use the best quality of organdy because it 

[28 1 



holds its shape and is always nice in color. A combination of a light 
and dark shade is effective. Organdy flowers are made more interesting 
by touching the edges and center with a little transparent water color 
paint. This is done after the flower is finished. It is always best to cut 
the organdy on the bias; it rolls better and is shaped more easily. So 
before anyone does any pattern cutting the top edge of the organdy 

must be rolled between the thumb and fingers. 

If rolled tightly the raw edge will not show 

and the rolled edge will keep its shape. It is im- 

^ ^.^^ ^ portant to know that fine winding wire makes 

'^ the best and most flexible stems for organdy 

flowers. 




Art. XVII, Figs. 1. 2, 3. 




Art. X\II, Figs. 4. 5 




Organdy Sweet 
Peas 

Article XVII 

.3 PETALS 

1 — 1 inch by 2 inches. 

1 — XYz inches by 3 inches. 

1 — 1^4 inches by 4 inches. 

JThe largest majority of flow- 
ers in this bunch are sweet 
peas. But there is a small rose 
and an apple blossom. To 
make sweet peas cut the de- 
sired lengths from a rolled bias 
piece of organdy. To make the small petal: (1) fold the smallest piece 
of oroandv double and slather across the base with a needle and thread ; 





,^" 




•i 

T ■ \ 






^3^%. 


1^ 


-.^: 

'•«► 


^^ \. g 




r 


r ifL^J 


a. 'S 


^ 


E^i 



29] 




(2) draw up tightly and sew it to a piece of wire (Art. XVII, Fig. 6, 7). 
The second petal is gathered as in the diagram (Art. XVII, Figs. 4 or 
8). Place the first made petal (Fig. 7) in the cen- 
ter of the second made petal (Fig. 9 ) and draw the 
thread tightly and sew. Shape the petals by giving 
them a pinch to the top center. Always have the 
rolled edge toward you in making a petal. The third 
is made as the second, but flattened and not pinched. 
Buds are made as the berry was made in (Art. II. 
Figs. 1, 2, 3) three berries are grouped together and 
the centers of each are touched up with transparent 
"water color. •^'■'- ^'^^^' 

The Organdy Apple Blossom 

The apple blossom is made of a strip of organdy 1 inch wide and 10 
inches long after rolling edge (Art. XVII, Fig. 1). Measure 2 inches 
along the rolled edge and pin a pin, measure 2 inches more and 2 inches 
more until you have placed four pins. Gather with needle and thread 
from the top edge to the base and then up to the pin at top edge as given 
in diagram (Art. XXI, Figs. 1, 2). Have the thread strong enough to 
stand the strain of pulling up when the five petals are made. Draw pet- 
als up together and finish them ofif at the back with a few stitches. 
Make a stem by forming a loop in the end of a winding wire and fasten 
it to the back of the finished flower. A few stamens can be sewed in 
the center or a few French knots may be made and filled into the center. 

The Simple Organdy Rose 

This rose is started with a swirl about 1 inch deep and 2 inches long 
(Art. XVII, Figs. 1, 2, 3). With a needle and thread gather the raw 
and unrolled edge of the bias strip of organdy. By puckering on the 
thread one can gauge the flare of the rolled edge. Secure with winding 

wire. Three petals may be placed around 
this center. Make petals on the same prin- 
ciples as petals 2 and 3 of the sweet peas 
(Art. XVTI. Fig. 4). The stems are cov- 
ered with 54 inch strips of green organdy 
cut on the bias. Turn in one edge ^ inch 
and start at the base of the flower. Fasten 
the end of the strip to the flower with a 
stitch or two and wrap stem. You can use 
the winding fibre or rubberized tape if you 

Art. XVII, Figs. S, 9. wish. 




30 




Organdy Morning 
Glory 

Article XVIII 

In Article XVII the flower has a rolled 
edge. The edges of the flowers in this 
bunch are made interesting by having the 
organdy edge picoted in a contrasting color. 
A piece of organdy may be hemstitched on the straight into strips 1>4 
inches wide. For the flowers cut the hemstitching so that the organdy 
strips will have a picot edge. Then cut into five inch strips. Join the 
ends in a French seam. Gather this small organdy tube at the base and 
run a gathering stitch about 3^ inch from the top edge. Take about 
six or eight threads of stamens and 

wind together with 8 inches of winding © (^ 

wire. Bring heads up through the tube 
and tighten gathering strings (Art. 
XVIlf, Figs. 1,2, 3. 4). 

LEAF 

The leaves are made of three cor- 
nered pieces which have been picoted 
around the edge. Trace diagram 15 
on Plate I. Gather the triangle at the 
base with needle and thread and sew 
fine wire in for stem. Wrap stems with 
tape. 

Art. XVIII, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. 





Art. XVIII, Figs. 5, 6. 



[31] 





a'/. 




\ 




^ 


.^- 




^' 




V 
< 

t 

{ 


1 




s 





Metal-Cloth 
Rose 

Article XIX 

CUT 

5 petals 2 inches by 3 inches. 
5 petals 2Y2 inches by 4 inches. 
2 — 2 inch squares for buds. 
2 — 3 inch squares for leaves. 
2 — 31^ inch squares for leaves. 
1 — 11/2 inches by 1 inch for spray for 
bud. 

Xhis rose and cluster of grapes 
are made of a metal cloth. This 
cloth comes in hoth silver and 
gold. Either would be pretty 
made up in this group. The sta- 
mens should be either gold or sil- 
ver as the cloth. This style of 
rose is suitable for an evening- 
dress ornament. 

Cut the required number of 
pieces for petals, having the 
material on the bias. The leaves 
are cut on the straight. 

Roll the top edge of the pieces 
so the small petal will measure 
I3/2 inches by 3 inches and the 
larger petals 2 inches by 4 
inches. Make and assemble petals as in (Art. XX, Figs. 4, 5, 6). 

LEAVES 

See (Art. II, Figs. 4, 5,6, 7, 8). 

BERRIES 

Are made on large commercial molds. These molds are made in all 
sizes. Do not zvct the metal cloth to work it up. Proceed to make the 
berries in somewhat the same manner as in Article II if you cannot 
obtain the commercial molds. 

BUDS 

See (Article XI, Figs. 2, 3, 4, 5). 

CALYX OR SPRA^' 

Fold the piece of cloth double and wrap around the bud. Bring ends 
down on stem wire and hold with winding wire. A circle 1 inch in dia- 
meter forms the spray in back of the rose. 

[321 




Gingham Rose and 
Small Flowers 



Article XX 

Cj INGHAM flowers are most effect- 
ive when made of gingham with the 
smallest size check. In this group 
of flowers we have a rose and a 
small flower. The leaves are made 
of the green check gingham but the 
jjlain green gingham or other cotton cloth might be used. Sometimes 
commercial foliage adds a note of realism. When worn with a gingham 
dress or hat of the same material they are very smart. 



FOR THE ROSE. CUT 

2 — 2^ inches by 1^^ inches on bias for petals. 

2 — 2y2 inches bj- 2 inches on bias for petals. ' ' 1 

1 — ZYz inches by 2j/^ inches on bias for petals. : ■' 

1 circle XYz inches in diameter for center. 

The circle is to be shirred and made into the foundation upon which 
the petals are secured. Run a gathering string in y^ inch from the edge. 
Draw it up and finish with two or three stitches. This foundation is 
Rose. That one is stuffed with cotton 
while the one for the gingham rose is 
unstuff'ed. Cut a tie wire 4 inches long, 
turn one end back to form a loop and 
twist several times to hold. Sew this to 
the gathered part of the foundation. 

Place a very few stamens at the base of , y \^tv^,^,.^2 ' 

the foundation and sew in place (Art. ^^»<=^j>^^ l/^S' 

XX. Figs. 1, 2. 3). "7 1/ I 

Art. XX. Figs. 1, 2, 3. 




TO MAKE PETALS OF THE ROSE 

Roll the top bias edge of the petal with the thumb and fingers as you 
do in making the organdy flowers. The gingham, however, does not stay 
in roll as readily as the organdy. So one must gather the petal at the 
base and finish by securing it in place (Art. XXIX, Figs. 4, 5). Before 
going on to make another petal. Start to gather at the top edge and 
gather to the base and up to the top on the other side of the petal (Art. 
XVI, Fig. 4). Draw thread slightly to give the petals shape. Sew the 
first petal to the stamens and have it cover half of the center founda- 

[33] 



tion. Roll and gather the second and place it directly opposite to first. 
The petals for the second row are rolled and gathered in the same way. 
There being three, each one overlaps the other one when they are set on 
to the rose. 

THE CALYX 

Is made exactly as the one described in Article XI. The edges may 
be turned in and slip-stitched down to the back of the rose. 

SMALL FLOWER 

Cut 5-1 J/2 inch squares on the straight of the goods. Cut 5 pieces 
of wire 3 inches long. Take a small amount of stamens from a bundle. 
Twist the tie wire around the center of the stamens and proceed as in 
(Art. XXIII, Figs. 2, 3, 4). Fold the gingham for petals diagonally. 
Then fold once more. This gives you one open edge (Art. II, Figs. 4, 
5, 6). Gather at base with needle and thread and sew securely. To this 
sew a piece of tie wire. After you have made the five petals, assemble 
them around the stamens. Place one at a time and secure with winding 
wire. Cover stems with white embroiderv cotton. 



GINGHAM LEAF 

Material for the leaves is cut 2 
inches square. The leaves are folded 
the same as the petal for the small 
flower. Sometimes we fold the square 
diagonally and then bring each folded 
edge into the center. This gives the 
opening in the center" instead of at 
one side. Gather with needle and 
thread from the end of the right side 
to the left. The wire for stem may 
be sewed on before the leaf is gath- 
ered (Art. XVI, Figs. 4, 5, 6). 




Art. XX, Figs. 4, 5, 6. 



[34] 




Large Rose 

Article XXI 

1 HIS flower is made of a 
long piece of silic, change- 
able in color. The edge is 
picoted. It is very simple 
to make and very effective. 
Any strip of silk 27 
inches long can be hemstit- 
ched into 3 inch widths and 
used to good advantage. To 
make the picot edge one 
cuts the strips apart along 
the hemstitching. 
Follow the diagram accompanying this article. See Figs. 1 and 2. 
With needle and thread gather both ends and one side of the silk. Ar- 
range a small bunch of stamens as the center. Draw up thread to form 
a swirl about this center of stamens. Turn edges back to give the flower 
a soft irregular finish. The flower 
measures 3j/< inches across the 
center when finished. 

This flower is a very satisfac- 
tory finish at the waist line for an 
evening dress. 

LEAVES 



Are made of green silk 4>^ 
inches long and Ij^ inches wide. 
Have the silk hemstitched as for 
leaves in (Art. XXII, Fig. 1). 
Have them taper to a point both 
top and bottom. Cover stem with 
sheet wadding and wrap with 
fibre. 




Art. XXI, Figs, 1, 2, 3. 



35 




Star Flower 



Article XXII 

Place a tissue paper over 
diagrams 17, 18, 19, Plate IV 
and trace. Trace the largest 
petal pattern (17) on a piece 
of cardboard and cut a pat- 
tern. Place this card pattern 
on silk with length of the pat- 
tern lying parallel to the grain 
of the silk. Mark silk and have 
it hemstitched on the line of 
the pattern. One needs 18 triangular pieces when the hemstitching is 
cut. Place the patterns of petals 18 and 19 on the triangles of silk and 
cut 6 of each. 



The petals are formed by bringing the right hand corner B over to 
the left hand corner A and gathering at base with a running stitch. (Do 
not press on the folded edge with the fingers) ( Art. XXII, Fig. 5). Cut 
a piece of fine wire 3 inches long. Turn an end back ^^ inch to form a 
loop through which to sew. Wrap each stem with rubberized tape about 
1/2 inch from the base of the petal. 

CENTER 

One has a great range of choice in stamens. The flower is very pretty 
when stamens are the same shade as the silk. Sometimes a contrasting 
color is efifective. And when nothing better is at hand the common yel- 
low stamens may be used. Remove the wire from a bundle of stamens 
and take 12 or 15 strands away. Carefully replace the winding wire 
about the other stamens and put them away for another time. Proceed 
to wrap a stem wire about the ones you want to use in this flower (Art. 
XXII, Figs. 2, 3, 4). Bring both ends pointing down and twist securely 
at the l)ase. 

Then l)end the heads up to cover the wire you have placed al)out the 
center. 



ASSEMBLE 

By placing the six smallest petals about the stamens. Arrange the 
next six to come between each of the first, and the last or largest size 
to come between each of the second row or just back of the one on the 
first row. Place the petals back of the stamens so ^ inch of the rubber 
stem of the petals will show. Hold all petals with winding wire. Cut the 
five wires olf at an angle up the stem. 

I 36 1 



BUDS 

In making buds one may use any small 
piece left from the picoted material. These 
pieces may be twisted to suit oneself. 

LEAVES 

See (Art. XVIII, Figs. 5, 6). 

STEMS 

Can be wrapped with the rubberized tape 
as are the base of the petals. They may also 
be wrapped with winding fibre. When using 
winding fibre finish end with a little touch of 
glue. A thin covering of sheet wadding over 
the stem wire makes the stem a better size. 

/\lways arrange the foliage and buds to 
extend just beyond the flower. 




Art. XXII, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. 



Silk 
Poppy 

Article 
XXIII 

Place a tis- 
sue paper 
over diagram 
11, 12, 13, 
Plate III and 
trace. 

This flower 
can be made 
of silk or rib- 
bon. Place the pattern on the silk or ribbon having the crosswise thread 
running from top of pattern to the bottom as in Star Flower (Art. 
XXII). Mark around each one leaving a space of ^4 inch between the 
petals, and then have the silk hemstitched on the petal lines. Have 5 
petals of each size. 

THE CENTER 

Of the flower is made of a contrasting color of silk. A gray or 
changeable is very pretty and most nearly like the center in a real poppy. 
( 1 ) Cut a strip of silk 2 inches wide and 8 inches long; (2) join the two 

[37 1 




ends with a running stitch; (3) fold lengthwise and form a tuck j4 i"ch 

deep; (4) and gather fold with a thread of twist; (5) turn wrong side 

out and put a gathering thread at the 

top edge; (6) draw up tightly and 

hold with 3 or 4 stitches (Art. 

XXIII, Figs. 1, 2, 3) ; (7) take a 

piece of cotton about the size of a 

cherry; (8) wrap the fine wire stem 

around the cotton; (9) twist wire at 

base; (10) cut ofif the short end; 

(11) gather around the base of the 

silk; (12) draw up to form a cup; 

(13) place cotton inside and draw 

the thread at the base and finish with 

a few stitches; (14) draw the thread 

tightly which forms the tuck. Set 

aside two of the smallest petals and 

one of the second size to be used for 

buds. Run a gathering thread at the 

base of each petal (Art. XXIII, Fig. 

6). Be careful to have a knot at each 

end of the thread. x,,. xxiii. Figs. i. 2. 3 




TO ASSEMBLE: 

Set on the three small petals first, sew each one to the ball center. 
Allow the edge of one to overlap the other. Sew the second size around 
the first three in the same manner and the last five around the preced- 
ing four. 

BUDS 

'Fold the two small petals together and catch at the base with a few 
stitches. Secure it to a fine stem wire. Make the second bud by folding 
the one petal and sewing it to a wire stem. 

STEM AND SPRAY 

Each stem mav be wrapped with a commercial chenille stem. If such 
stem is not available any stem resembling a poppy stem may be used. A 
small circle of silk }^ inch in diameter may be sewed to the base of the 
poppy to form spray. About 2 inches below the base of the poppy place 
a few leaves. In the illustration commercial foliage has been used. This 
is a verv attractive flower to be worn on a chiffon or georgette dress. 



38 




Small Dahlia 

Artice XXIV 

CUT 

20 petals IJ4 by 1>2 inches. 

1 HIS flower is most beautiful when 
made of a changeable silk that has 
one side picoted. 

It could also be made from a few 
inches less than a yard of 3^'S inch picot ribbon. 

Cut 20 pieces 1^ inches long. Fold in a triangular shape having the 
picot edge meet in the center of the petal (Art. XXIV, Figs. 1. 2, 3). 
Form a small loop in the end of a winding wire and sew it to the 
gathered base of the petal. Wind stem of each petal about 1 inch with 
silk fibre. 

CENTER 

Use about a quarter bunch of stamens and in the center of this place 
a small pep to give the fiower more interest. 

TO ASSEMBLE: 

Set on the ten petals close to the stamens with the base of the petal 
almost even with the heads of the stamens. Secure one petal at a time. 
Trim away the fine wires to taper ofif nicely up the stem before setting 
on the second row of petals. The second row is placed so that they ex- 
tend about 14 i"ch beyond the first row. 
Wire and trim off as you did on the first 
wires. Cover the stem with a piece of 
sheet wadding and wind with silk fibre. 
Place a bit of foliage on each side of the 
flower, fasten with a piece of winding 
wire and cut away the ends. Cover the 
entire 3 inches of stem with winding 
fibre. Tape could be used all through the 
flower instead of fibre. 



Art. XXIV, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. 




[39 




Boudoir 
Flowers 



Article XXV 

Xhe flowers and 
foliage in this clus- 
ter of flowers are 
made of shaded 
]:)icot ribbon. The 
rose is made of 
satin and chift'on. 
Some of the flowers are made with dark part of the ribbon to the cen- 
ter and some are made with the shades just reversed. The stems are of 
fine wire wrapped with winding silk. The stems of boudoir flowers are 
made of green cord or braid when the flowers are used on garments. 
When they are used for a decoration on a lampshade, candle shade or 
fancy box they can be arranged more artistically by having the wire 
stems. 



ROSE 

The center of the rose is made of a circle of chiffon 2 inches in dia- 
meter. Turn edge in Yx inch and gather around. Draw up and finish 
with 2 or 3 tight stitches. 

The two petals which form the sides of the roses are made of 2 inch 
squares of satin. Fold diagonally, gather from top right hand corner B 
to the base C and up to the left hand corner A. Do not draw enough 
to bring all of the fullness together, but enough to form a hood. Place 
the chiffon center inside the satin hood and fasten there. The second 
petal is made in the same way and placed exactly opposite the first 
petal. The third petal is larger, fold 
and gather as the other two and 
place across the rose. Have one end 
start at the center of the first petal 
and the other end to finish at the 
center back of the second petal 
(Art. XXIX. Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5). 




Art. XX\', Figs. 1, 



LEAVES 

The leaves are made of y'l inch 
green shaded picot ribbon. Cut a 
piece 2 inches long, fold double with the dark shade at top edge. ( either 
along- the doubled edge, starting at the folded end. Draw the thread 
slightly to form the gathers for center of leaf. The leaf when finished 
will be j/j inch long. Gather in at the base and sew to a loop in a fine wire. 

[40] 




Art. XXV, Figs. 



6, 7. 



To make your group interesting" make ditterent size leaves (Art. XXX, 
Figs. 5, 6, 7). 

FIVE ROUXD PETAL FLOWER 

The two round petal flowers are made of ^4 i^i'^l^ shaded picot ribbon. 
Cut ribbon 6 inches long, measure 1% inches from end and place a pin. 

Oo this until 4 pins have been placed, 
thus 5 petals will be measured off. Gather 
from the top right hand end to form the 
petals, follov/ diagram (Art. XXV, Figs. 
1.2). Run the needle to the bottom of the 
ribbon, then across the base to just below 
the pin and up to the pin. Continue with 
the others in the same way and draw the 
gathering thread. This will form the pet- 
als. Bring the two ends of the ribbon to- 
gether and hold with 3 or 4 tight stitches. 
Sew a tine wire to the center back ; form 
a loop at the end to hold the stitches. 5 or 6 heads of stamens or French 
knots are sewed in the center. Wrap stem with winding silk. 

TWO ROUND FLOW^ERS 

The two round flowers are made of I/2 inch picot ribbon, 7 inches 
long. Turn in one end of ribbon and run a gathering thread along one 
edge and draw up tightly as you roll and shape the flower into a swirl 
(Art. XXI, Figs. 3, 4). Take two or three tight stitches to sew the 
swirl in place as you go. This is rather full and does not need the sta- 
mens for center. Form loop in end of a wire and sew to center back of 
flower. 

FIVE POINTED PETAL FLOWER 

This flower is made of ^ inch shaded picot ribbon. Each petal is 
made separately. Cut 1 inch pieces of ribbon for each petal. Take the 
right hand upper corner of ribbon and bring to 
the center of base. Take the left upper corner ® /^ 

and bring it down to meet other in center of I •— -- 

base. Gather across the bottom and draw up to 

shape. Finish ofl:' with two or three tight U 

stitches. After the five petals are made, as- 
semble the petals to form the flower, sewing one 
at a time. Sew a fine wire at center back. Five 
or six heads of stamens may be sewed in the 
center or French knots of embroidery silk may 
be used. 

Art. XXV, Figs. 




41 



# 


^•/ 




Mm- 


^. 


"T-*. 



Boudoir Flowers 



Article XXVI 



flower consist of 
y2 yard of a dark 



Materials for this 
1/2 yard of a light and 
shade of ^-^ inch picot ribbon. The inside 
petals may be dark and the outside hght 
or the shades may be reversed. Cut rib- 
bon into 2 inch lengths. Gather with 
needle and thread from the top edge 
down one side, across the bottom and up the other side. Draw the thread 
to form the petal. Take a few heads of stamens and wrap with a fine 
winding wire (Art. XXVI, Figs. 1, 2, 3). Place one of the dark petals 
around the stamens and the second dark petal around the first petal. 
The three outside petals are of the light shade. Gather the light petals 
in the same way and sew on, having each one overlap the preceding one 
a half. The stems are covered with a thin covering of sheet wadding' 
before wrapping silk fibre. Take one dark petal for the bud and place 
it around a few stamens. For the second bud take two petals of the light 
shade and sew them together, overlap- 
ping the edges of one with the other as Q 
in the flower. Wrap stem with fibre. 

LEAVES 

Cut 3 three-inch pieces of ribbon, 
fold each piece double. Have the dark 
edges together. Gather from the folded 
end with a needle and thread along the 
dark edge. Form gathers and make the 
leaf }i inch long. Secure at base with 
3 or 4 tight stitches. Wrap a fine wire 
about the base. Cover stem with fibre. An. xxvi. Figs, i, 2, 3. 






Boudoir Flowers 

Article XXVII 

T^UE flowers in this bunch are made 
t)f a double faced satin ribbon, picot 
edge. The edge has been further fin- 
ished by embroidering it with a fine 
chenille in a contrasting color. The 
stitch used in the edge is called the 
"Blanket Stitch." Hold the edge of 



42] 



the ribbon toward you and work from the 
left hand end to the right. Place the threaded 
needle % inch from the edge of the ribbon 
and take a stitch (Art. XXVII, Figs. 1, 2). 
Continue along the edge and across one end. 
Gather along the other edge and draw thread 
up. Do not break the thread until you have 
finished the flower. Arrange in a rosette, 
slant at the center to obtain a swirl. Sew as 
you shape it, keeping it rather flat. If well 
shaped you will have about two layers 
around the center. 

LEAF 

See (Art. II, Figs. 4. 5, 6, 7, 8). Sew the 
ends in the leaves for this flower and fasten 
them with wire. 




Art. XXVII, Figs. 1, 2, 3. 



This makes a very good decoration for a boudoir pillow or basket. It 
is easily handled if sewed to a small foundation. A circle of crinoline 2 
inches in diameter covered with silk makes a good foundation upon 
which to sew the trimming. Arrange artistically where placed and sew 
to place through the foundaton only. 




Apple 
Ornament 

Article XXVIII 

1 HIS ornament is made of 
silk, velvet, duvetyn, or any 
material which would har- 
monize with the hat you wish 
to put it on. Many of our 
most eft'ective trimmings are made of the same material as the hat. Take 
only a quarter part of a bunch of commercial stamens and add a pep to 
the center. Hold the pep in place with a piece of winding wire around 
the pep and stamens (Art. VII, Figs. 1,2). The ornament is made from 
a circle 5 inches in diameter. Place a thimble on the center and mark 
around it. Run a gathering thread on this line (Art. XXVIII, Fig. 1). 
Snip area in the center of circle and pull the stem wire through, leaving 
the stamens to stand up and out from the silk but bringing the pep flat 
on the silk (Fig. 2). Draw the gathering string to form the fullness at 
the base of the stamens. When the ornament is made of silk turn in y^ 



43] 



inch and gather the base. If velvet 
and hke material is used do not turn 
in the base before gathering". Fill this 
covering with cotton and draw up 
close on back (Fig. 3). Finish ofif by 
bringing the needle up through the 
center close to the stamens. These 
stitches will help to make it flat rather 
than round. To finish add a few 
leaves taken from a bunch of com- 
mercial foliage. Use a commercial 
stem about 3 inches long. Stem may 
be wrapped with winding silk. 




Art. XXVIII. Figs. 1, 2, 3. 




French 

Rose 

Sachet 

Article XXIX 



CUT 

1 circle 2^ inches in diameter. 
2 — 23^ inch squares for petals. 
3 — 3 inch squares. 

The center or foundation of this flower is made from the circle. Make 
this of satin. Turn edge in y^, inch and gather with a needle and thread. 
Draw up slightly to form cup for sachet and cotton. Sprinkle the sachet 
in next to the satin and then put in the cotton. Use enough cotton to 
form a pad or l)utton about ^4 in^^li <leep (Art. XXIX, Figs. 1, 2j. Draw 
up tightly and stitch several times, this must be firm and well made. 

Fold the square once diagonally. Gather from the top right hand side 
to the base and on up to the left hand side. Draw the thread slightly to 
form a hood for the center to rest in (Art. XXIX, Figs. 3, 4). Pin each 
petal in place before sewing it. Have the top or bias edge across the 
foundation in the center (Art. XXIX, Fig, 5). Pin petal in place and 
sew. When secure cut ofif the gathering thread which was left hanging. 
The second petal is gathered in the same way as the first and placed on 
the foundation in the same way, having the two folded edges opposite 
each other. The next three petals are placed and sewed about the first 
l)etals. Pin them first to the foundation, one at a time. Have the bias 

[44 1 



edge of the first large petal across the end of the first two petals. The 
second large petal starts at the center back of the first large petal and 
goes half way round. The last starts at the center back of the second 
and goes around to the center of the first. 

LEAVES 

See (Art. XXX, Figs. 5, 6, 7). Three small leaves look well showing 
from the under side of this rose. 

The back of this rose will be quite unfinished. If you are going to sew it 
on to something at once it will be all right to leave it this way. If you 
wish to show it or to give it to someone 
or even fill an order, it would be better 
to cut a circle 2 inches in diameter of the 
same silk as used in the flower. Turn the 
edge in ^ inch and hem down to back 
of the rose to cover all the stitches. 

This rose makes a very efl:'ective finish 
for lingerie bands. If used for that pur- 
pose pink would be the most appropri- 
ate color. 

It adds much to the trimming of fancy 
boxes, baskets, pillows, etc. Use any de- 
sired shade. One or two petals of gilt 
lace or white net may be added to give 
more interest. An. xxix, Figs, i, 2, 3, 4, 5. 





June Rose 
Sachet 

Article XXX 

Cut a piece of chififon, preferably pink, 
6)4 inches square. 

Measure I14 inches from the edge. \\'ith a running stitch sew a pink 
silk thread from top edge to the bottom. Be sure to have the thread 
the length of the chififon and be most careful not to take a back stitch 
for then the thread could not be drawn up later. Sew a second gather- 
ing thread 1 inch from the first, and so on until 5 such threads have 
been run in the length of the chififon. Join the end by turning one side 
in ys inch and let overlap % inch on the other. Hold in place with the 
same running stitch you used with the other 5 threads. Turn the top 
edge in ^4 inch and gather up and hold with 3 or 4 tight stitches. Draw 

[45] 



each gathering thread care- (7) 
fully to form the petals. Fin- 
nish off securely. Turn the 
edge of chiffon in and gather 
edge up tightly. Bring the 
needle up through the cotton 
to the top side of rose 3 or 
4 times. French knots of yel- 
low silk may be made for the 
stamens or you may use 
about 6 or 8 heads of the com- 
mercial stamens. Sew these 
in place at center and cut the 
thread ends of stamens away. 
A tiny leaf of green shaded 
picot ribbon makes a good 
ffnish. If you wish to add a 
little sachet, cut a circle of 
sheet wadding ^ inch in dia- 
meter, open and put sachet 
between the layers. Cover this 
wadding with a circle of pink 
silk \y2 inches in diameter. 

Turn edges in all around and gather. Place this over the wadd 
sachet and draw the threads and fasten them securely. Sew the 
chiffon rose to this scented pad. 




Art. XXX, Figs. 1, 2, 3, 4. 



mg and 
finished 




LEAVES 

Cut a piece of ribbon 1 inch wide 
and 2 inches long. Hold the center of 
the ribbon with left thumb and finger. 
Bring the cut end of the ribbon to the 
lower edge of ribbon. This gives you 
the selvage edge on the center top of 
leaf. Gather at base and finish with a 
few tight stitches. 



Art. XXX, Figs. 5, 6, 7. 



46] 




American 
Beauty Rose 

Article XXXI 

1 HE petals for this 
rose are always cut 
double the width of 
the ribbon used. If the 
ribbon is 1 inch wide 
cut the petals 2 inches 
long". For the 5 double 
petals cut 5 nine-inch 
pieces of ribbon. Fold 
the petal double, turn 
the corner of the top edge by rolling slightly (Art. XXXI, Fig. 1). Hold 
by taking 3 or 4 tiny stitches but do not allow the stitches to come through 
to the front of the petal. Shape petal at base with 2 or 3 folds, always 
have the selvage edge up (Art. XXI, Fig. 2). This gives the desired 
cup shape. Sew with silk to match the velvet. The five outside petals 
are 4 inches long. Trim the corners slightly rounding. Draw them be- 
tween the blade of scissors and thumb to roll them back. Shape and sew 
base same as other petals. Assemble petals by sewing through the sta- 
mens at the base between the stem wire and the wire holding the heads 
of stamens. Arrange stamens as for (Art. XXII, Figs. 2, 3, 4). 

Have the first 2 petals opposite each other, the next 3 sew to the first 
2 at the base and have evenly lapped. Then sew the five single petals to 
the last three and have each one overlap the one before by ^ inch. The 
stem may be a commercial rubber (j)' 
stem, cut it % inch shorter than the 
wire stem. To cover stitches cut a cir- 
cle of velvet ribbon and run stem wire 
through it for the spray or run stem 
through a commercial calyx and hold 
this to the flower with a bit of glue. 

Secure 1 or 2 branches of commer- 
cial leaves to the stem wire with a 
small piece of winding wire, then in- 
sert the wire ends into the rubber 
stem. Hold in place by turning up ^ 
inch of the stem wire at the end of the 
rubber tubing. Shape stem and ar- 
range leaves artistically. Art. xxxi, Figs, i, 2, 3. 




[47] 




Velvet Poppy 

AkTici.i-: XXXII 

Place tissue paper over 
(HaL;ram 14 and trace off 
pattern of petals, Plate III. 
This flower measures 4 
inches across the top. 

Turn the raw edge of 
each petal back i/^ inch and 
baste. Cut pieces of spool 
wire 2 inches longer than length around petal. Hold the wire against the 
petal and turn the edge over the wire and hem the edge on the wrong- 
side. Take a tiny stitch so that it will not show on the right side (Art. 
XXXII, Figs. 1, 2). 

Assemble a small amount of stamens 
around a fancy pep (Art. VII, Figs. 1, 
2). Shape the petals at base with 2 or 
3 pleats and sew each petal to the sta- 
mens. Place the first with the second 
opposite, then the third and fourth. A 
circle of velvet can be glued on back to 
take the place of a calyx or a commer- 
cial calyx can be used. The stem wire 
and foliage may be slipped into a rubber 
stem. 




Art. XXXII, Figs. 1, 2. 



148 1 




Plate I 

NOTE — The above drawings and those on the three following pages 
are for medium sized flowers. Larg;er or smaller flowers may be made 
by increasing or decreasing the size of these patterns. 

[49] 



MATERIALS REQUIRED FOR 
FLOWER MAKING 

1 HE list of supplies given below corresponds with the list 
compiled by Mr. Mark Jacobs, 235 Greene Street, New York City, a 
wholesale merchant of flower-making materials. Through his courtesy, 
people, unable to obtain the necessary flower-making materials in small 
towns, may order direct from Mr. Jacobs. Knowing the difficulties that 
one sometimes experiences, he has kindly consented to pay prompt and 
efficient attention to all requests, accompanied by money order. 

STE.MS 

Chenille @ $2.50 Gross Yds. 

Green Rubberized Tape @ 1.50 Roll 

Brown Rubberized Tape @ 1.00 Roll 

Green Winding Fiber Silk @ 1.00 Large Spool 

Poppy Tubing @ .25 Doz. Yds. 

Bronze Rose Tubing @ .05 Yd. 

Large Rough Rubber Tubing @ .06 Yd. 

CENTERS 

Stamens — Yellow, White, Poppy @ $ .35 Doz. Bunches 

Fancy Colored Stamens — French Blue, Light Blue, Light 

Green, Pink, Cerise, Light and Dark Rose, Lavender. 

Brown and Black Ca_ .50 Doz. Bunches 

Gold and Silver Stamens (iv .25 Each Bunch 

Peps — Lily, Daisy, Geranium, Pansy, Lilac, Silver Lily, 

Blue and Silver, and many other combinations of 

colors (a .35 to .50 Each 

Bunch 
WIRE 

Green Stem Wire @ $ .95 Lb. 

White Covered Wire @ .85 Large Spool 

Winding or Tying Wire (cv .50 Lb. 

No. 36 Tying Wire @ .20 Small Epool 

SUNDRIES 

No. 2 Rubber Sprays @ $ .75 Gross 

No. 4 Rubber Sprays %. 1.25 Gross 

Rose Cups — Small Size (5 Gross to a Box) @ .75 Box 

Rose Cups — Large Size (5 Gross to a Box) (d^ 1.00 Box 

Pincers , @ .25 

No. 91 Cotton Molds (nl .75 Gross 



[S3 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

Page 

Introduction 3 

General DirLXtions for Flower Making 5 

Taffeta Flowers 

I Loose Bud Spray 9 

II Berry Cluster 10 

III Raisins 11 

IV Small Apple Spray l- 

VIII Taffeta Rose 17 

Flowers with Folded Petals or Leaves 

V Apple Spray Leaf 13 

VI Daisy 15 

VII Small Peony 16 

Roses and Similar Flowers 

IX Tea Rose and Berry 19 

X French Rose and Buds 20 

XI Pond Lily 21 

XII Rose Bud Spray 23 

Flowers Made from Old Kid Gloves 

XIII Dogwood 24 

XIV White Water Lily 25 

Flowers and Leaves with Wire in Edge of Petal 

XI Pond Lily Leaf 21 

XV Large Silk and Silver Rose 26 

XVI Pansy 28 

Organdy Flowers 

XVII Sweet Peas and Apple Blossoms 29, 30 

XVIII Morning Glory 31 

Metal Cloth Rose. XIX 32 

Gingham Flowers 

XX Rose and Small Flowers 33 

Mowers with Picot Edge 

XXI Large Rose 35 

XXII Star Flower 36 

XXIII Poppy 37 

XXIV Small Dahlia 39 

Boudoir Flowers 

XXV 40 

XXVI 42 

XXVII 42 

XXVIII 43 

j3.clict S 

XXIX French Rose Sachet 44 

XXX June Rose Sachet 45 

Velvet Flowers 

XXXI American Beauty Rose 47 

XXXII Velvet Poppy 48 

Petal Pattern Diagrams, Plates I, II, III, IV 49, 50, 51, 52 

Materials required for Hower making 53 

[541 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 148 061 3 • 






i.v;~--. V 






